Free Guide to Replacing Engine Mounts Yourself

Understanding Engine Mounts and Why They Fail

Engine mounts are rubber and metal components that attach your engine to the vehicle frame. They serve a critical function: absorbing vibration and movement while keeping the engine in the correct position. Most vehicles have between three and four engine mounts, depending on the model and engine size. Each mount consists of a metal bracket, rubber isolator material, and bolts that secure everything together.

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Over time, engine mounts deteriorate from constant exposure to heat, oil, and vibration. The rubber material gradually hardens and cracks, losing its ability to absorb movement. This process typically occurs between 80,000 and 150,000 miles, though it varies based on driving habits and vehicle maintenance. When mounts fail, you may notice excessive engine vibration, especially when accelerating or idling. Some drivers report hearing clunking sounds when shifting between drive and reverse, or feeling movement in the cabin that wasn't present before.

Recognizing worn mounts early prevents further damage. A failed mount can allow the engine to move excessively, potentially damaging surrounding components like belts, hoses, and wiring harnesses. In severe cases, extreme engine movement can even cause collision with the radiator or transmission. Replacing mounts before complete failure protects your investment in the vehicle.

Replacement costs at repair shops typically range from $300 to $600 per mount when including labor. For vehicles with multiple failing mounts, total costs can easily exceed $1,500. Learning to replace mounts yourself can reduce this expense significantly, as parts alone usually cost between $75 and $200 per mount depending on your vehicle make and model.

Practical Takeaway: Inspect engine mounts during routine maintenance by looking for cracks in the rubber or excessive metal-to-metal contact. Listen for clunking during acceleration or gear changes, which indicates mount wear.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Before beginning any engine mount replacement, gather all necessary tools and materials. Having everything prepared prevents frustration and potential safety issues. The basic tool list includes a socket set with both metric and standard sizes, wrenches in common sizes, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a sturdy work surface. Many modern vehicles require specialized sockets or extensions to reach bolts in tight spaces. Depending on your vehicle, you may need 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, or 17mm sockets—10mm and 13mm are the most common for engine mount bolts.

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A torque wrench is essential because engine mount bolts must be tightened to specific specifications. Under-torquing allows excessive movement; over-torquing can crack the rubber or strip bolt threads. Digital torque wrenches cost between $30 and $60 and provide accuracy within 4 percent, which is acceptable for this work. A mechanical click-type torque wrench costs slightly less and works equally well. You'll also need a hydraulic floor jack and at least two jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—jack stands provide essential safety redundancy.

Safety equipment is non-negotiable. Wear safety glasses to protect against falling debris and dust. Heavy work gloves prevent cuts and provide grip when handling metal components. Have penetrating oil available for stuck bolts; products like WD-40 or similar penetrating oils help loosen corroded fasteners. A creeper or mechanics mat keeps you comfortable while working underneath the vehicle. Keep a flashlight or headlamp nearby, as engine compartments often have limited visibility.

Your vehicle's service manual is invaluable—it contains torque specifications, bolt locations, and mount identification. Many manufacturers publish these manuals online for free, or you can purchase a printed copy. The manual also shows if any additional components require removal to access specific mounts. Some vehicles have transmission mounts or motor mounts that must be supported separately during replacement. Document everything by taking photos before starting work; this reference guide helps during reassembly.

Practical Takeaway: Invest in a quality torque wrench and ensure you have the proper socket sizes before beginning work. Your vehicle's service manual is the single most important reference for successful replacement.

Step-by-Step Replacement Process

Begin by parking your vehicle on level ground in a safe location. Engage the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Allow the engine to cool for at least 30 minutes after operation. Locate your vehicle's engine mounts using the service manual—most vehicles have one mount on each side of the engine and one at the rear transmission area. Take detailed photos of the mount orientation and surrounding components before disconnecting anything.

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Start with an accessible mount rather than the most difficult one. This approach builds confidence and allows practice with the process. Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, positioning it under a solid frame point, never under plastic trim or the oil pan. Once the vehicle is at working height, place jack stands under appropriate support points according to your manual. Slowly lower the vehicle until it rests completely on the jack stands. Verify stability before proceeding underneath.

Most engine mounts have three bolts: two connecting the mount to the engine or transmission, and one securing it to the frame. Beginning with the frame bolt, apply penetrating oil and let it sit for several minutes. Loosen all bolts slightly before fully removing any single bolt. This prevents sudden engine movement. Support the engine with a hydraulic jack placed under the oil pan with a wood block protecting the pan. Once bolts are removed, lower the engine slightly to relieve pressure on the mount, then slide the old mount out.

Inspect the mounting points for damage or corrosion before installing the new mount. Clean away any rust or debris. Position the new mount carefully, ensuring alignment with all holes. Insert bolts and tighten them finger-tight first, checking that everything aligns properly. Raise the engine back to its normal position, then use your torque wrench to tighten bolts to specification. Typical engine mount bolts torque to between 35 and 55 foot-pounds, depending on the vehicle and mount location. Consult your service manual for the exact specification.

After replacing each mount, start the engine and allow it to idle while observing vibration levels. The engine should run smoothly without excessive shaking. Listen for any clunking or grinding sounds that would indicate improper installation. Test drive the vehicle on quiet roads to verify that clunking during acceleration has resolved. If vibration persists after replacing all worn mounts, additional issues like engine imbalance or damaged components may require professional diagnosis.

Practical Takeaway: Always support the engine with a jack before removing old mounts, and never fully loosen all bolts on a single mount without engine support. This prevents sudden engine dropping and potential injury.

Identifying and Locating Engine Mounts on Different Vehicles

Engine mount locations vary significantly based on vehicle type, engine orientation, and transmission type. In front-wheel-drive vehicles with transverse engines (engine running side-to-side), mounts typically include two side mounts on the engine block and one transmission mount near the rear of the engine. In rear-wheel-drive vehicles with longitudinal engines (engine running front-to-back), the configuration usually includes one or two mounts on each side and a rear transmission mount. Understanding your specific vehicle layout prevents confusion and mistakes.

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Most vehicles have an engine mount on the right side of the engine, mounted between the engine block and the frame rail. This mount typically carries significant engine weight. The left-side mount, usually smaller, primarily prevents rotational movement. The rear or transmission mount absorbs forces during acceleration and braking. Some vehicles, particularly larger trucks and SUVs, may have four or even five mounts to distribute load across the frame.

Accessing these mounts requires removing components that surround them. For side mounts, you may need to remove wheel well covers, air intake components, or cooling hoses. The transmission mount often sits directly underneath the transmission, requiring removal of the transmission support crossmember. Some vehicles require lowering the subframe to access certain mounts. Your service manual provides a detailed breakdown of what removal is necessary for your specific vehicle. Many YouTube channels document this process for popular models, offering visual references that supplement written instructions.

Engine compartment space constraints affect accessibility. Some vehicles have tight spaces that make reaching mount bolts difficult without removing additional components. Compact cars and luxury vehicles often present the greatest challenges. Allow extra time when working on unfamiliar vehicles. If you encounter